The Best Duffle Coats To Buy In 2019

Well over a century old and practically lined with menswear heritage, the duffle coat is fashion at its most historic and most practical. Forget Paddington Bear (who admittedly wore it well). The duffle is synonymous with sailors and protesting students and, this year, it’s the coat that designers are returning to in droves.

In a lot of ways, it’s the consummate winter coat. Casual and tactile, it’s usually spotted in warm winter colours that make it an inviting cocoon in cold and wet weather. And while the duffle coat isn’t made from modern fabrics with taped seams or hidden pockets, it has serious outdoors pedigree.

Like trench coats, bomber jackets and a lot of menswear besides, this wardrobe staple is a decorated military veteran. Adopted by the British Navy in the late 19th century, it became standard issue on the decks of freezing frigates and remained in service throughout World War II (Field Marshal Bernard Montgomery, not history’s most obvious fashion influencer, was a big fan).

After the war ended, the military released a huge number of surplus coats to the public. The low cost and hardy construction attracted students and artists among others, and even now, the duffle coat carries a touch of the preppy British scholar about it.

The back-to-school vibe, mixed with its utilitarian roots, means it slots seamlessly into modern menswear. It was spotted on the runways for labels as diverse as Valentino and Kent & Curwen. Which means there’s consensus: you need one.

Gloverall

What Is A Duffle Coat?

The duffle is a lot of coat, and that’s putting in mildly. Traditionally cut boxy from heavy, coarse wool, it also features a much larger hood than other coats with this kind of heritage – think monk habit or Jedi cloak and you’re on the right lines.

Because it was originally designed to keep sailors warm on deck, almost every design element has practicality behind it. There’s a button-up collar bar to shield your neck, big patch pockets and distinctive buffalo-horn toggles, which are supposedly easier to fasten when you’re wearing gloves. Traditional designs extend as far as the knees but modern cuts that stop around the waist are also common.

This practicality is why the design has endured as a winter coat, says Marianne Tse-Laurence, head of design at Gloverall, the British heritage brand that continued making duffle coats after military surplus styles ran out.

“The thick boiled wool means it’s weather resistant, it will also keep its shape for years and is really hard wearing,” says Tse-Laurence. “The wool has lanolin, which is a natural oil from sheep which helps wick water away from the body helping insulation.”

How To Wear A Duffle Coat

“The duffle coat is perhaps the most casual of coat styles to adopt for the winter season,” says Olie Arnold, style director at Mr Porter. “They traditionally finish just above the knee and are not supposed to be a tailored style, so when shopping for one, ensure it’s not too fitted so that layers can be worn underneath.

“The duffle is very flexible with its colour options; camel and navy are popular choices but shades of lighter blue and green work well too.”

You can wear a duffle coat over tailoring to create a high-low vibe, but such hardy outerwear plays best with other pieces that are just as tough. Think raw denim or corduroy trousers, chunky boots or commando-soled shoes. These styles walk a nice line between military and preppy, which is exactly where a duffle coat should sit.

“It is a great piece that can incorporate layering underneath. For a contemporary look try layering it with a denim jacket underneath, with chinos and sneakers. In cold weather, add a knitted beanie hat or chunky scarf.”

Assuming you don’t want to attract Paddington Bear comments, avoid wearing with a red bucket hat, he adds.

The Best Brands For Duffle Coats

Gloverall

Probably the brand with the closest association to the duffle coat today, Gloverall ties with the style stretch back to the 1950s, when it received a huge consignment of surplus styles from the military. When these sold out, the brand made a more civilian-friendly version, a little trimmer in the body, and followed up with cropped versions.

The duffle is still Gloverall’s signature piece today, modernised with different fits, interesting colours and occasional collaborations.